Testing procedures for small rock anchors for various activities including rock climbing are specified in the European Standard EN959. Further refinements for testing of chemically bonded anchors and variable rock conditions were proposed in a recent paper published in this journal. This method in combination with field tests was subsequently used to test a particular type of rock climbing anchors which has a long-standing tradition in the sport of rock climbing especially in Australia, but also elsewhere. It was found that the tested type of anchor does not fulfill the requirements stipulated in the EN959.
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