Active Standard ASTM D7020 | Developed by Subcommittee: D13.61
Book of Standards Volume: 07.02
Historical (view previous versions of standard)
This performance specification covers fabrics for woven blouses, dresses, dress shirts, and sport shirts. It is not however applicable to woven fabrics used for interlinings. These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent. The fabrics shall meet the following performance requirements: breaking strength which shall be determined using a constant rate of extension tensile testing machine; resistance to yarn slippage; tearing strength; dimensional change during pressing and finishing, after laundering, or after dry cleaning; colorfastness to laundering and dry cleaning; shade change due to sodium hypochlorite bleaching or non-chlorine bleaching, burnt gas fumes, dry and wet crocking, perspiration, and xenon-arc light; fabric smoothness after pressing, laundering, and dry cleaning; and flammability.
This abstract is a brief summary of the referenced standard. It is informational only and not an official part of the standard; the full text of the standard itself must be referred to for its use and application. ASTM does not give any warranty express or implied or make any representation that the contents of this abstract are accurate, complete or up to date.
Significance and Use
Fabrics intended for this end-use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1.
It should be recognized that fabrics can be produced utilizing an almost infinite number of combinations of construction variables (e.g., type of fibers, percentage of fibers, yarn twist, yarn number, warp and pick count, chemical and mechanical finishes). Additionally, fashion or aesthetics dictate that the ultimate consumer may find acceptable articles made from fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1.
Hence, no single performance specification can possibly apply to all the various fabrics that could be utilized for this end-use.
The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods.
TABLE 1 Performance Requirements for Woven Blouse, Dress, Dress Shirt & Sport Shirt Fabrics
|Blouse & Dress Fabrics||Shirt Fabrics|
|Sheer Fabrics||Non-sheer Fabrics||Dress Shirt Fabrics\t||Sports Shirt Fabrics|
|Breaking Strength (CRE)A\t\t\t||67N (15 lbf)||111N (25 lbf)\t||111N (25 lbf)\t||111N (25 lbf)||5.1|
|Resistance to Yarn Slippage; |
6mm. (1/4 in.) separation\t\t
|45N (10 lbf)\t||67N (15 lbf)\t||67N (15 lbf)\t||89N (20 lbf)||5.2|
|Tearing StrengthA \t\t||4.5N 1.0 (lbf)||6.7 (1.5 lbf)||6.7 (1.5 lbf)||6.7 (1.5 lbf)||5.3|
|Pressing||2.0 %, maximum||5.4.1|
|After 5 launderings||3.0 %, maximum||5.4.2|
|After 3 dry cleanings\t||2.0 %, maximum||5.4.3|
|Shade change\t||Grade 4|
|Shade Change\t||Grade 4|
|Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach||5.5.3|
|Shade Change\t||Grade 4|
|Shade Change||Grade 4|
|Burnt gas fumes\t||5.5.4|
| Shade change (1 cycle each |
original & after 1 cleaning)\t
|Shade change||Grade 4|
| Light (Xenon-arc) |
20 AATCC fading units
|Fabric Appearance||SA 3.5||5.6|
|Flammability -16 CFR 1610||Class 1||5.7|
A There is more than one method that can be used to measure breaking strength tearing strength and colorfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since there may be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 5).
1.1 This performance specification covers fabrics for woven blouses, dresses, dress shirts, and sport shirts.
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to woven fabrics used for interlinings.
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4 When a fabric requires special treatment, specific methods will be described as they are developed for that material, and such special tests will have precedence over these general requirements.
1.5 The following precautionary caveat pertains only to the test methods described in this performance specification: This standard may involve hazardous materials, operations, and equipment. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices, and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents (purchase separately) The documents listed below are referenced within the subject standard but are not provided as part of the standard.
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam
D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
D2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel
AATCC Methods188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering
Federal Standards16CFR1610 Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations
ICS Number Code 61.020 (Clothes)
UNSPSC Code 53102307(Body shaping garments)