Active Standard ASTM D6554 / D6554M | Developed by Subcommittee: D13.61
Book of Standards Volume: 07.02
Historical (view previous versions of standard)
Significance and Use
Upon agreement between purchaser and supplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics, the ultimate consumer of apparel made from these fabrics may find the product acceptable, even if it does not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1 or Table 2. One or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 or Table 2, therefore, may be modified upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.
In such cases, any references to this specification must specify the following: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 6554 except for the following characteristic(s):” All exceptions must be noted.
Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Tables 1 and 2 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.
TABLE 1 Performance Requirements
|Heavy Weight||Medium Weight||Light Weight|
|Breaking Strength (Force), CRT:||7.1|
|Warp||801 N (180 lbf), min||578 N (130 lbf), min||356 N (80 lbf), min|
|Filling||312 N (70 lbf), min||244 N (55 lbf), min||178 N (40 lbf), min|
|Elmendorf Tear Strength:||7.2|
|Warp||51 N (11.5 lbf), min||35 N (8.0 lbf), min||18 N (4.0 lbf), min|
|Filling||18 N (4.0 lbf), min||15 N (3.5 lbf), min||13 N (3.0 lbf), min|
|(¼ -in. Separation)||222 N+ (50 lbf +)||133 N+ (30 lbf +)||111 N+ (25 lbf +)|
|3 × 1 Twill, only||8 % ± 3 %(wtl)A|
|2 × 1 Twill, only||4.5 ± 3 %(wtl)A|
|Stretch (Warp Elongation) as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier||7.5|
|Width as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier||7.6|
|Weight as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier||7.7|
|Dimensional Change, %|
|Preshrunk (each direction)||4.0 % max,|
A WTL = with the twill line.
TABLE 2 Colorfastness Requirements
|Non-Indigo Dyed||Indigo Dyed and Sulfur Black Colors||Section|
|Ozone, two cycles, shade change||7.10.1|
|Original (*A)||Grade 4 min||Grade 3.5 min|
|After one laundry cycle (*A)||Grade 4 min||Grade 4 min|
|Shade change (*A)||Grade 3.5, min||Grade 2, min|
|Stain (*B)||Grade 3, min||Grade 2, min|
|Light (*A) (20 AATCC FU)(xenon-arc):||Grade 4, min||Grade 4, min||7.10.3|
|Dry||Grade 4, min||Grade 3, min|
|Wet||Grade 1.5, min||Grade 1.5, min|
|*A—AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change|
|*B—AATCC Gray Scale for Staining|
|*C—AATCC Chromatic Transference|
Note—Class for color change or color transfer is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible to 1 for severe color change or color transfer. These properties may not be relevant if the denim will be garment wet processed. Other properties may be negotiable between customer and supplier.
1.1 This specification covers performance requirements for 100 % cotton woven denim fabrics, prior to the manufacture of jeans, casual apparel, work clothing, and outerwear.
1.2 This specification is not applicable to woven denim fabrics used as interlinings or protective clothing.
1.3 This specification covers the performance of denim fabric on rolls ready for garment manufacturing.
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and to determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents (purchase separately) The documents listed below are referenced within the subject standard but are not provided as part of the standard.
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam
D1230 Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles
D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
D3107 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from Stretch Yarns
D3774 Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric
D3776 Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric
D3882 Test Method for Bow and Skew in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel
ICS Number Code 59.080.30 (Textile fabrics); 61.020 (Clothes)
UNSPSC Code 11161702(Twill weave cotton fabrics)